We recently took a trip up to Tromsø, the largest town in the polar region of Scandinavia. It is located 186 miles inside the Arctic Circle on the same latitude as northern Alaska.
Its location provides one of the best chances to see the Northern Lights, which was the purpose of this trip. We booked a travel package that included a Northern Lights excursion, dog sledding, a night in a traditional Sami tent, and reindeer sledding. Matt compared this weekend to a foreigner going to Texas and visiting a dude ranch. I say, when in Rome ... act like a tourist!
The Northern Lights, or Aurora Borealis, are explosions on the sun reflecting off the Earth's atmosphere. We were told this is the best year to catch them because of something about an 11 year cycle of a solar something. It's science.
 |
| This was taken at the hotel before leaving on the tour just in case we didn't see the lights. |
A charter bus filled to the max with other tourists took us an hour and a bit from Tromsø to a rocky beach in Skibotn. The guides receive a weather report on where the sky will be the clearest 10 minutes before departure. However, we were warned that they drove over two hours to the Swedish border the night before and didn't see any.
We realize we are first of all extremely fortunate to have the means and opportunity to take this trip. On top of that, we were so lucky to have optimal circumstances on this particular night because it's not always a given that you'll see the Northern lights. The three main ingredients needed to catch the them are no light pollution, a clear sky, and active explosions on the sun. Check, check, and check.
 |
| Perhaps it doesn't come across through the expression on our faces, but this really was a breathtaking experience! |
The photo was taken by the guide who was also a 'professional' photographer. This just means he knew how to use a high tech camera to capture the lights. The settings have to be just right with long exposure times and a tripod is necessary. We had to sit absolutely still for 15 seconds in the dark. We didn't really know where to look resulting in awkward dead eyes.
We were out in -17°C (1°F) weather for over 2 hours. The intensity of the lights changed throughout this time. To see more pictures, you can go to http://northernshots.com/ then click on the box that says Northern Lights Chase Excursions (pictured on the right). On the next screen, click on 8 Feb.
Although, the pictures don't even come close to doing this night justice. We've got the memories. Just freaking awesome.
The next day we walked around Tromsø before departing for Lyngsfjord on our Sami adventure.
 |
| A wool base layer is the key to staying warm. |
 |
| Some people tie up their dog on the sidewalk. Others, their reindeer. |
 |
| We don't all live on a yellow submarine? |
 |
| There just happened to be a lasso throwing contest in the center of town that day. Notice that they are not swinging it around above their heads, but winding back and throwing it like a football. These Texans were quite confused... |
As if Friday night wasn't incredible enough, the weekend continued to get better. We traveled on another charter bus inland to Lyngsfjord where we would experience the Sami way of life at Camp Tamok.
The Sami are the indigenous people inhabiting parts of far northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia. They are the only indigenous people of Scandinavia
recognized and protected under the international conventions of
indigenous peoples, and hence the northernmost indigenous people of Europe.
The night began with an hour and a half dog sled ride which was another wild experience. At first, our pack of dogs wouldn't budge. The lead pups were friends and just wanted to play! They had to be separated like children. We were given Heidi, an experienced gal who got the boys in check! From time to time, Matt had to step off the sled into snow that was knee deep and run behind it to help the dogs. Pff. And he wanted me to try driving...
 |
| There are no pictures of the actual ride because, well ... neither one of us remembered the camera. Just imagine Matt standing in the back. And picture me sitting on the reindeer skin holding on for dear life. |
 |
| After arriving back at camp, we helped unharness the dogs. |
 |
| Matt was in heaven. He loves dogs like I love babies. |
 |
| God morgen puppies!!! |
 |
| Meet Heidi. She was my favorite. |
After dog sledding, we gathered in a traditional Sami tent called a lavvu. For dinner, fish soup was served next to a warm fire. Camp Tamok did not have any electricity or running water. Those who know how neurtotic I am in regards to cleanliness would be very proud of me!
 |
| Main lavuu |
To get the true Sami experience, we chose to sleep in a lavvu instead of a cabin. Traditional tents are built so that they can be packed up and moved easily. Ours was modernized because the beds were built up for warmth.
 |
| The tent slept 12, but we shared it with just one other couple crazy enough to tough it out with us. It was actually not that cold because the other girl woke up every so often to feed the fire. The poor thing was scared of literally freezing to death. |
 |
| The birch branches and reindeer skins were a traditional aspect of the lavuu meant to keep you warm. Along with the fire, it got so hot that I had a small panic attack in the middle of the night and ripped myself out of my sleeping bag! And broke out in a heat rash from my wool thermals! |
Needless to say, I didn't sleep much that night. Unlike the sleeping bear next to me! I was also anxious to get up with the sun to see the view around us.
 |
nine
planets around the sun, only one does the sun embrace, upon this watered
one, so much we take for granted, so let us sleep outside tonight, lay
down in our mother's arms, for here we can rest safely
What? You don't sing Dave Matthews in your head during amazing life moments? Hmm. That's weird.
|
 |
| Our lavvu |
 |
| I spy Charity! |
 |
| traditional lavvus |
 |
| Camp Tamok |
We had a nice Norwegian breakfast - bread with meats, cheeses, & jams (pålegg!) Afterwards, I couldn't find Matthew for a while...
 |
| He went exploring to find the camp's water source. |
 |
| It was just a few steps away. |
 |
| a wall of snow as tall as me! |
Reindeer sledding was our last adventure of the weekend. I'm not sure if it can exactly be classified as an adventure, though. It was kind of like going on a pony ride, but I think it was worth it to be able to say we've been reindeer sledding in the artic.
 |
| Not as thrilling as the dog sled, but still pretty freaking awesome. |
 |
| This guy and his family own the reindeer. We talked to him for quite a while and learned a lot about his very interesting life. Their best-known means of livelihood is semi-nomadic reindeer herding. I also learned that asking a Sami how many reindeer they own is like asking your neighbor how much money they have in the bank. Traditionally, a husband and wife don't even know how many reindeer each owns. |
 |
| Their clothing is all hand made and the patterns indicate what area they are from. His hat, pants, and shoes are made out of eleven reindeer. The shoes are simply reindeer skin filled with grass and his naked feet. He said they weren't cold because they moved with the texture of the ground helping the blood to flow. I kind of wandered what he had on under his reindeer pants... |
 |
| Anxiously waiting my first reindeer meal! |
 |
| Hot tea and reindeer soup was a very appropriate ending to this incredibly awesome weekend. |
We'll be back to catch the midnight sun.
*We completely forgot to take pear pictures!
